Mexico’s Xochimilco Canals: My Guide to Riding on a Trajinera Boat

As you might have heard before, the Mexican culture is especially known for their fiestas—the party spirit runs through their blood! This was evident to me when visiting the Xochimilco canals, it is a network of water channels that have dozens upon dozens of colorful trajinera boats that carry mariachi musicians, happy guests (like me!) and yummy food from Mexico.

Honestly, going to Xochimilco is one of those things you have to do if you ever visit Mexico City—it’s under an hour drive away. The canals themselves and riding in the trajineras are insanely popular amongst tourists and locals, and for good reason! I can tell you from personal experience that this will be a once-in-a-lifetime bucket list kind of experience.

Mexico’s Canals: A Guide to a Xochimilco Boat Ride on a Trajinera Gondola

Mexico’s Canals: A Guide to a Xochimilco Boat Ride on a Trajinera Gondola


What are the Xochimilco Canals?

Xochimilco lies 17 miles south of Mexico City, and it is mostly known for it’s large body of floating gardens that run through a vast lake and create the popular Xochimilco canals. The gardens don’t really “float” per se, but they are only held together with a few roots of trees that are man-made through natural resources.

Xochimilco directly translates to place where flowers grow, and its canals are a attraction—a Sunday escape, a floating fiesta of trajineras, a picnic and the Venice of Mexico. The chinampas there (which are the floating gardens), are recognized as an UNESCO World Heritage site and are actually still used for cultivation up to this day.

Trajinera Boats in Xochimilco Mexico

What is a Trajinera?

“Trajinar” which is a Spanish verb, directly translates to carrying goods from one place to another. And that’s originally what the “trajinera” boats were for. Porfirio Diaz, the former president of Mexico, used the “trajineras” to give guests a tour of the quintessential Xochimilco and it grew to become one of the main pastimes for Mexicans.

Most trajineras seat as many as 20 people on wooden bench tables, but you can even find bigger ones, usually called lanchas colectivas that fit over 60 people! And although you can pretty much take a “trajinera” ride anytime, the best time to do so is during Sundays. This is the best way to experience it as a local.


The Experience of Riding Trajineras in Xochimilco

Arriving at the Xochimilco canals is like seeing an explosion of Skittle colors—a rainbow piñata of boats. Rows and rows of trajineras (gondolas), stacked back to back and side by side, waiting for hundred of passengers which would no doubt be arriving shortly. Each have a unique name, like Viva Lupita, Margarita,l Carmelita and Ms. Julietta (the name of my ride!).

Trajinera Xochimilco Mexico

You know what a completely normal scene is like on the Xochimilco canals? Let me tell you what it was like for me. If you think the experience only entails being on a trajinera and gliding through pretty greenery, then you’re wrong. The whole experience is a multi-sensory one where a lot of different stuff happens at the same time.

A traditional family sing together while passing group of rowdy young people. There are snacks to be purchased, floating mariachi bands, taco boats, colorful ponchos and sombreros everywhere and much more (including photographers taking pictures of you!).

Annette riding a Trajinera Boat

Brightly colored gondolas, dozens of people, huge groups, good food and music—what more could you ask for? As you float down the canals back and forth, you’ll also get to pass boats that sell food, drinks and even souvenirs—I’m talking corn on the cob, sombreros and lots of beer! 

As we were on the boat, a lively mariachi band actually pulled up to our side and “serenaded” us with some good old Mexican folk music. Other vessels passed us along the way, some carrying families who were celebrating a members cumpleaños (birthday) and some packing college students enjoying a day away from studying. There was dancing, singing and laughing aboard them all.

Trajinera Boats in Xochimilco Mexico

Plenty of gondolas filled with vendors and souvenirs glided by, selling everything from blankets to flowers to libations. Of course, when you’ve been on a boat for a while, it’s hard to pass up a delicious Micheladas (a beer Bloody Mary) and elotes (grilled corn slathered in a creamy chili and lime sauce with cheese, it’s a classic Mexican street food or in this case ‘water food’).

Though you can buy food on the water or bring your own, our lunch was catered by a local restaurant and brought on board prior to departure. Mariachis played in the background as we ate soft tortillas frilled with refried beans, peppers and cheese.  A plate of very addictive chicharrones (fried pork rinds) was passed around and cervezas were plentiful.

Lunch at Trajinera xochimilco

Danza de los Voladores

After you’re done on the water, return to the dock where souvenir shops in the mercado area wait. I skipped the shopping and headed straight for the the Danza de los Voladores (dance of the flyers) show that was happening in a courtyard nearby.

This Mesoamerican dance ceremony, consists of flyers climbing to the top of a 30-meter pole. Secured by ropes they then launch themselves to the ground, mesmerizingly spinning around the pole all the way to the bottom. I got dizzy just watching!

xochimilco Performers

A trajinera boat trip along the Xochimilco canals is one of the best ways to actually experience the local life first-hand. You’ll get to see the eternal fiesta enjoyed in the Mexican culture all the time, and you’ll get to have a different type of bucket list attraction.

Essential Tips for Visiting the Xochimilco Canals

Xochimilco Canal Tours: You can take a tour with GetYourGuide that will take you through a tranquil boat trip along the water and a visit to Frida Kahlo’s house (Casa Azul). You’ll also get to explore the quaint streets of Coyocan after a hectic day on the water.

There’s also another tour by Viator that will take you through the streets of Coyocan, the National Autonomas University of Mexico to see murals of Diego Rivera and more, go to the Frida Kahlo Museum, and then float on a trajinera down the Xochimilco canal! 

If you choose to find your own way to the Xochimilco Canals and not book a tour, you can negotiate with the boat owners upon arrival or arrange your trip through your hotel. If you do not make prior arrangements, arrive early as they tend to get very busy. A boat ride should cost around $500 Mexican pesos ($26 USD) per hour for the entire boat, not per person.

What to Bring: 

  • Make sure you have cash to buy food, drinks and souvenirs. They do not take credit cards.
  • If you’d rather bring your own food, the pack an ice chest for the ride.
  • Bring speakers! If can then liven up your gondola with your own music. Check out these portable travel speakers.

Other things to do Nearby – To keep with the once-in-a-lifetime theme, my top recommendation is a visit to La Isla de las Muñecas. The Island of the Dolls is something straight out of a horror novel—an entire island dedicated to old dolls. There are hundreds of old dolls (deteriorating too) that are creepily hung over the trees. It’s no surprise that people actually think that this place is haunted.

Other Things to Know

  • It can be quite crowded, especially on the weekends, so if you are looking for a more tranquil experience try visiting early in the morning on a weekday.
  • It’s best to book the trajinera for at least two hours. This way you’ll be able to venture further away and explore more.
  • A trip is best enjoyed with a large and lively group!
  • Semana Santa, Holy Week, is definitely the busiest week of the year.
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Helpful Resources

Mexico City: An Opinionated Guide for the Curious Traveler

19 thoughts on “Mexico’s Xochimilco Canals: My Guide to Riding on a Trajinera Boat”

  1. looks like such a wonderful experience. I think music, food, booze, and good company.. makes a great combo pretty much anywhere you go, but I love how colorful this is – an explosion of skittles is a great way to describe it haha

    Reply
  2. The first line of this article is the absolute perfect description of the gondolas! Speaking of, I love that each one has its own name. Looks like an amazing way to experience Mexico’s Xochimilco canals.

    Reply
  3. The borough is centered on the formerly independent city of Xochimilco, which was established on what was the southern shore of Lake Xochimilco in the pre-Hispanic period. Today, the borough consists of the eighteen “barrios” or neighborhoods of this city along with fourteen “pueblos” or villages that surround it, covering an area of 125 km2 (48 sq mi). While the borough is somewhat in the geographic center of the Federal District, it is considered to be “south” and has an identity separate from the historic center of Mexico City. This is due to its historic separation from that city during most of its history. Xochimilco is best known for its canals, which are left from what was an extensive lake and canal system that connected most of the settlements of the Valley of Mexico. These canals, along with artificial islands called chinampas, attract tourists and other city residents to ride on colorful gondola-like boats called “trajineras” around the 170 km (110 mi) of canals. This canal and chinampa system, as a vestige of the area’s pre-Hispanic past, has made Xochimilco a World Heritage Site. In 1950, Paramahansa Yogananda in his celebrated classic Autobiography of a Yogi wrote that if there is a scenic beauty contest, Xochimilco will get the First Prize.

    Reply
  4. Great Blog listings, it is wonderful travel blog stories provide the best adventures for the Travellers. I have also want to travelling experience with the sensory deprivation. Thanks for the sharing the fantastic travel story i am inspire of this travelling.

    Reply
  5. I did that tour last year with a group of friends and we loved the boats, atmosphere, music, flowers .. everything was so amazing and colorful. Reading your article brought back the memories of that great experience!

    Reply
  6. Went yesterday afternoon with my girlfriend, a very good friend from back home in Canada (he flew in for the weekend to hang out while we live here for Nov 2018). We also had a new friend with us who we met in a shared co-working environment.

    Our driver, Gustav took us on a 2hr+ journey on a boat he built himself (took him over a year), named the “Fernanda.”

    The experience was nothing short of magical. We had water food, michiladas, had a Mariachi band board our boat for three songs (a traditional song, a romantic song, and a rhythmic song). They were wild. Larger than life personalities.

    Gustav took us on a slow, meandering tour through this water-based community. Every house in the area has back or front yards that face onto/into the canal. Many cleaning, preparing, or repairing boats. Some serving or selling items.

    We did not realize until after we got on Fernanda that we could have rented a speaker / PA to blast party tunes while on the water. That said we had a perfect and amazing time regardless. There were point where we were surrounded by other boats and we dancing to their music, and there were parts where it was tranquil and quiet and still – truly beautiful.

    I can’t wait to go back. We saw pairs/couples, smaller, and bigger parties. You can make a go of it no matter the size of your party is.

    Oh also, on the way there in your car there will be gentlemen on scooters and bicycles who will tell you certain roads are closed etc. If you re driving the car just keep going to your Embarcado – you don’t need to follow their instructions and the roads are not closed.

    You have to do this. It was incredible.

    Reply
  7. This is another experience I’ll have to add to my bucket list for when I get back to Mexico. I love all of the colorful pictures of the trajineras and the cultural experience this provides.

    Reply
  8. Annette,
    I’m planning my husband’s 50th birthday in Mexico City in November and want to cater a lunch for 15 on one of the trajineros for a lunchtime canal ride at Xochimilco. You mentioned that a restaurant catered your lunch. Could you share info on how that was arranged? Any helpful tip would be greatly appreciated!
    -Shawn

    Reply
  9. I love how colorful the boats at Xochimilco are, and the fact that they are named after women! This is always a good time and one of my favorite things to do in Mexico City. Fiesta!

    Reply

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