If you’re going to fall in love with a city stomach-first, let it be Oaxaca. I spent almost a month wandering the streets of this cool Mexican city—with one main goal: to eat everything in sight. Pastries, market food, street snacks, fine dining—I didn’t hold back (and I have zero regrets).
If you’re planning a trip and looking for the best things to do in Oaxaca City, eating your way through town has to be at the top of the list. And this food guide is packed with all the best bites I had—no fluff, just the mouthwatering spots that are 100% worth your time (and your appetite).
Coffee, Pastries & Breakfast Places
Bodaega
My favorite pastry shop in all of Oaxaca City—no contest. And trust me, I did the research! The pastries here are almost too pretty to eat… almost. You’ve gotta try the morning bun with jamón serrano—it’s that perfect combo of savory and buttery. And if they’ve got the rhubarb compote Danish with hibiscus? Don’t even think twice. This isn’t the place for eggs and toast, but it is the place for a killer cappuccino and a pastry that’ll make your whole morning.
Pan Con Madre
This all-sourdough bakery is so much more than just amazing croissants (though, yes, they’re flakey perfection). I’m obsessed with their yogurt bowl—it’s piled high with fresh fruit, crunchy granola, and cacao nibs, and feels like one of those breakfasts that’s both healthy and totally satisfying. They’ve also got amazing sourdough breads, fluffy focaccia, and savory scones that are seriously to die for.
C. de Quetzalcóatl 205-D, Ruta Independencia, Centro
Boulenc
Boulenc is the breakfast spot in Oaxaca City, and it’s popular for a reason. They’ve got two café locations, plus a bakery right next door to the one in the center of town—and yes, I tried them all (in the name of research, of course).
Their menu has a little something for everyone: fresh breakfasts, loaded salads, hearty sandwiches, wood-fired pizzas, and more drink options than I could possibly list. What did we order? A delicious croissant stuffed with jamón and quesillo, topped with a perfectly poached egg. Focaccia with mushrooms, spinach, and melty cheese. And a gorgeous yogurt bowl with fresh fruit that tasted just as good as it looked. It’s safe to say—this was one of the best breakfasts we had in town.
There’s not a ton of seating and the place fills up fast, so I definitely recommend going early to beat the rush.
C. Porfirio Díaz 207, Ruta Independencia, Centro
Sagrado Filemón I Pan y Café
Sagrado Filemón has great pastries, but it also served up the best yogurt bowl I’ve ever had—hands down. And no, this wasn’t your average grab-and-go parfait. It was a beautifully layered bowl of housemade granola, fresh seasonal fruits, a drizzle of honey, and the star of the show: coffee marmalade.
They also make some of the most inventive breads in town, using local ingredients and bold flavors. One of their signatures is the Café Cacao—made with laminated dough, filled with creamy coffee goodness, and topped with cacao nibs and sea salt.
Ignacio Allende 218, Ruta Independecia, Centro
Masea Trigo Y Maíz
Masea isn’t your typical coffee-and-pastry shop—and that’s exactly what makes it special. It’s part bakery and part atole bar, and all about honoring corn and the ingredients of small Oaxacan producers. You won’t find cappuccinos here (they don’t use milk at all!), but you will find beautifully crafted pastries and traditional drinks that are totally worth trying.
I fell in love with their Nido de Manzana—a flaky, just-sweet-enough apple pastry—and washed it down with a chilled horchata. But the real star for me? The oatmeal blue corn cookies. I went back four times for those little bites of joy (yes, four).
They’re also known for their atoles, a warm masa-based drink that comes in flavors like cinnamon, vanilla, and guava.
Reforma 411, Ruta Independencia, Centro
Best Restaurants in Oaxaca City
Adamá
If you’re in Oaxaca and find yourself craving something other than Mexican food (yes, it happens), head over to Adamá. It’s tucked away on a quiet street and only open Friday through Sunday, so make sure to plan ahead.
The vibe is super relaxed, the service is friendly, and the food? Absolutely fantastic. Chef Hagar Aviram serves up fresh, flavorful Middle Eastern dishes made for sharing—like crispy falafel with creamy tahini, juicy lamb kebabs, and warm pita. Yum!
Aldama 101, Ruta Independencia, Barrio de Xochimilco
Brío Cocina Local
Brío is set on a terraced hillside overlooking a church in the heart of Oaxaca City, but the wood-fired grill is really the star of the show here. Every dish seems to come out with a hint of the flames, and the flavors are next level. I started with the roasted beet salad—topped with a local herb mix, burrata espuma, chamomile honey, and a little chili dip. But the real showstopper? The grilled pork chop with peanut mole. I’m not exaggerating when I say my whole group talked about that pork chop for the rest of the trip.
Also worth trying: the wood-fired octopus with roasted cauliflower and chimichurri.
Calle de Armenta y López 300, Centro
Casa Mook
We originally found Casa Mook because my friend was on a mission for the best pozole in Oaxaca—and this place totally delivered. Their traditional pozole was so good, I had to go back one more time before leaving town.
But honestly, we came for the pozole and stayed for everything else. The memelas with asiento, beans, and cheese were simple but so flavorful, and the rest of the menu is packed with all the Oaxacan staples—things like huitlacoche, squash blossoms, and herbs you probably haven’t cooked with at home. And yes, there are plenty of house-made tortillas to scoop up everything.
The space itself is beautiful too—like part restaurant, part art gallery, with pieces that nod to Oaxaca’s deep food culture.
Vicente Guerrero 417, Zona Feb 10 2015, Centro
Casa Taviche
Casa Taviche is a little gem tucked just outside the hustle and bustle of Centro, and it’s totally worth the short walk. The dining area is set in a sweet little courtyard, giving it that relaxed, away-from-it-all feel that’s perfect for a slow lunch or early dinner.
The menu is small and always changing, but everything we tried was so good. We had the avocado and tomato salad, a tlayuda with chorizo, chia-crusted tuna, and the guava tart for dessert—and I’d happily order every single dish again. The food is hearty and unfussy, but the presentation is beautiful (flower petals and all!).
Oh—and whatever you do, save room for dessert!
El Chapulín
El Chapulín doesn’t look like much from the street—just a quiet little doorway. But once you climb the three flights of stairs (yes, three—don’t give up!), it opens up to a breezy rooftop terrace.
The menu is full of Oaxacan flavor, from classic moles to fresh seafood. But the standout here—the reason to make the climb—is the caldo de piedra (stone soup). This traditional Chinantec dish dates back to pre-Hispanic times and is as much an experience as it is a meal. They actually heat up river stones and drop them into the broth right, cooking the fish and aromatics in front of you.
Miguel Hidalgo 507-B, Zona Lunes Feb 09, Centro
Las Quince Letras
Mole takes center stage here, especially the mole negro—smoky, rich, and so deep in flavor it barely needs anything else. But don’t miss the molotes de plátano—crispy fried plantains stuffed with savory meat and topped with sweet red mole.
We also loved the garnachas istmeñas, piled high with shredded beef and pickled cabbage, and the sopa de guías, a comforting squash vine soup served with a tlayuda and a slice of tasajo. And if you’re craving something hearty, the tasajo a la oaxaqueña with mole enchiladas and melted quesillo is a must.
C. de Mariano Abasolo 300, Ruta Independencia, Centro
Levadura de Olla
The dishes here are rooted in ancestral techniques but elevated with thoughtful, seasonal touches. We had the prettiest guacamole I’ve ever laid eyes on—made with a trio of native avocados and served with crisp blue corn tostadas.
The barbacollita tamal (made with cracked corn, chicken, pork, and chilies) was pure comfort. The plate of native tomatoes with beetroot purée and fruit vinaigrette was almost too pretty to eat. And the native zucchini with pipián and mint? So simple, so vibrant, so good.
Definitely make a reservation in advance—this spot is special, and it fills up fast.
C. de Manuel García Vigil 304, Ruta Independencia, Centro
Los Danzantes
This was my birthday splurge night—and it was so worth it. A group of my friends booked this Michelin-recognized spot for a special dinner. The whole experience, from the dreamy open-air courtyard to the insanely creative dishes, felt like a celebration from start to finish.
We started with the crispy leaf salad—grilled figs, hibiscus dressing, roasted cauliflower, pecans, barley… basically, a garden party on a plate. The yellowfin tuna ceviche with mango and morita pepper sauce was fresh and bold, and the ancho chile stuffed with huitlacoche over tamala pumpkin purée was one of those dishes I didn’t want to end.
And yes, we absolutely found room for the guava cheesecake with pixtle cream (worth it, no matter how full you are). Their cocktails are top-notch too, made with their own house-distilled mezcal.
➞ Make reservations well in advance—we booked two weeks ahead and I’m glad we did.
C. Macedonio Alcalá 403-interior 4, Ruta Independencia, Centro
Pisto al Pesto
Pisto al Pesto serves the BEST wood-fired pizzas topped with gourmet things like prosciutto and eggplant, plus great wine and a cozy backyard-style vibe that feels like dining in someone’s home. We literally sat at a table in what looked like a driveway. We came for pizza and left a little bit obsessed—especially after the complimentary tomato bruschetta!
Av. José María Morelos 109, Calzada Madero, Centro
Tacos Chemita
If you’re looking for a quick, no-fuss lunch in Oaxaca, Chemita Tacos is the place. This local taqueria, just steps from our hotel, is all about quality—and their al pastor tacos are the star of the show. You can literally watch the meat slowly rotating on a spit right from the street (talk about great marketing!), getting perfectly crispy and juicy as it cooks.
They also serve suadero, tripa, and steak tacos, all cooked with that same care and flavor. And if you want something a little bigger, try the chemita alambres—a fajita-style dish loaded with pastor, chile de agua, avocado, onions, peppers, bacon, and cheese.
FYI: The vibe is super casual—plastic chairs, checkered tablecloths—but don’t let that fool you. It’s really good!
C. de Manuel García Vigil 215, Ruta Independencia, Centro
Zandunga
First, the setting of Zandunga is beautiful—right in the heart of Centro, just a five-minute walk from the Zócalo. The open courtyard has a huge tree in the center and feels modern yet welcoming.
What we loved? The fresh pico de gallo with shrimp, a hearty tlayuda loaded with all the good stuff, the zesty ceviche, and that unforgettable tamal de mole negro. Just a heads-up: portions here are generous, so sharing is definitely the way to go.
C. de Manuel García Vigil 512-E, Ruta Independencia, Centro
Oaxaca City Street Food
Tacos del Carmen
You will find Tacos del Carmen on a busy corner in the heart of Oaxaca, with fresh corn masa tortillas slapped onto a coal-fired comal right in front of you. The smell alone will reel you in, but it’s the flavor (and price!) that’ll keep you coming back.
You can order your tortilla rolled up like a taco or folded into a quesadilla (either way, you can’t go wrong). Fillings range from gooey quesillo and earthy mushrooms to spicy tinga and my personal favorite: the chile relleno.
It’s super casual with a few stools, a bit of shade, and prices so low you’ll feel like you’re getting away with something—tacos are under two bucks.
Jesús Carranza 110, Ruta Independencia, Centro
Tlayudas La Chinita
La Chinita is the spot for a late-night tlayuda fix—and it’s more than just a meal, it’s a full-on street food experience. Come opening time at 8:00pm, a small crowd gathers in front of the family-run street stand made famous on Netflix’s Street Food: Latin America. And yes, the food is as good as the hype.
Run by Doña Chinita and her family, this no-frills stand turns out some of the best tlayudas in town—giant, crispy tortillas layered with asiento (pork fat), beans, quesillo, cabbage, salsa, and your choice of meat, then folded and grilled until smoky and perfect. Everything is roasted right there, in plain sight. You can choose tasajo, cecina, chorizo—or get adventurous with the tripe.
Esquina, nuño del mercado y 20 de noviembre, C. de Nuño del Mercado 209
Chefinita (tostada’s, pozole y tacos)
If you want some tacos with a serious kick, Chefinita is the place. it felt like the kind of street food Anthony Bourdain would’ve raved about. This late-night taco stand near the 20 de Noviembre market doesn’t just serve great street food—it serves it with a side of fire, thanks to their legendary habanero salsa. (Consider yourself warned: it’s spicy in the best way.)
The tacos are great, but what will really surprise you is the pozole.
20 de Noviembre 32-416, Centro
Where to Get Cocktails
La Cueva
Just steps from the Church of Nuestra Señora de la Defensa, La Cueva is exactly what it sounds like—a moody, cave-like bar. We stopped in for a pre-dinner drink and ended up lingering longer than planned thanks to the cozy atmosphere, live music, and some truly excellent cocktails.
Their craft beer selection is solid, but if you’re more of a wine person (like me!), you’ll be happy to know they’ve got a few great glasses on the menu too. The staff is super friendly, the lighting is low and atmospheric, and the whole place feels like a cool little hideout from the buzz of the city.
Sabina Sabe Cocktails
The bar at Sabina Sabe may be small, but it’s one of the top places to get a cocktail in Oaxaca, and it’s even made the list of the World’s Top 50. There might be a little wait (it’s cozy inside), but it’s totally worth it.
I went straight for the Paloma Margarita—a mix of Espolón blanco, Campari, Aperol, citrus, and a splash of grapefruit—and it was delish. The Guayabo Verde is another fave: light, herbal, and refreshingly unique with mezcal, guava, basil, and tonic.
Also… there’s this one piece of art on the wall I could not stop staring at. If you go, tell me if it catches your eye too—I’m genuinely curious if it’s just me!
5 de Mayo 209, Ruta Independencia, Centro
Selva Cocktail Bar
You’ll find Selva on the second floor with a great view of Santo Domingo. It’s the perfect spot for a pre-dinner cocktail, especially if you’re at Los Danzantes, which is right downstairs..
The vibe is mid-century cool meets Oaxacan soul—lush plants, warm lighting, and artistic touches that celebrate the region’s roots. The cocktails are next-level, built around local flavors and ingredients. The signature Selva (mezcal, hoja santa, chile liqueur, basil, and more) somehow tastes like Oaxaca in a glass. How’s that possible?
C. Macedonio Alcalá #403-int. 6, Ruta Independencia, Centro
Tips for Dining in Oaxacan Restaurants
Reservations: If there’s a place you really want to try—make a reservation. Even for lunch. Some popular spots do accept walk-ins, but I learned pretty quickly that having a reservation (especially for dinner) saves you from long waits or missing out completely.
Tipping: Tipping is common in Oaxaca, and it’s a sweet way to say “gracias” for great service. That said, the tipping culture is a little different from the U.S. Most restaurants will prompt you with tip options starting at 10% (sometimes even 5%). I usually tipped 10%, and it felt appropriate for sit-down meals.
Prices: This was such a pleasant surprise—meals in Oaxaca are generally 40–50% less than what I’d pay back home in California. You can eat really well without breaking the bank. Here’s a real example of what we ordered at Zandunga for two people:
- 1 Pico de gallo
- 1 Tlayuda (Oaxacan pizza)
- 1 Fish Ceviche
- 1 Tamal de mole negro (large tamale)
- 2 Modelo Especials
- Total: $42 USD
The Best Food Tours & Cooking Classes
Cooking Class Dos Corazones
This was hands-down one of the best experiences we had in Oaxaca. Chef Aubrey welcomed us into her home with big hugs and even bigger stories about her grandmother’s cherished recipes.
The class started with a steaming cup of traditional Oaxacan hot chocolate and a tasting of regional fruits like zapote negro and pineapple mango. Aubrey showed us how to squish it between our fingers until it was soft, then bite the top and sip the juice inside before eating the fruit.
After snacking on roasted nuts and plantains, we tied on traditional aprons and got to work. Our group of seven made chileajo, chile relleno stuffed with chicken picadillo, and two types of salsa. We all took turns chopping, stirring, and laughing. Bonus—mezcal and beer flowed freely the entire time.
Every single person in our group said this was the highlight of their trip—and I totally agree.
➞ You can book the exact class I took here: Traditional Oaxaqueña Cooking with Grandma’s Recipes
Oaxaca Market & Tasting Tour
This was not your average touristy taco crawl. This tour took us deep into the massive Central de Abastos market—so local that we were literally the only non-locals there. It felt like getting a behind-the-scenes pass to Oaxacan daily life.
And yes, we ate (a lot), but what really made it special was how much we learned. Every bite came with a story—about culture, history, tradition. We built our own taco campechano using ingredients we hand-picked, sipped tejate (a pre-Hispanic cacao and maize drink), and tasted enmoladas dripping in rich mole.
Other highlights? Quesadillas from Comedor Conchita, salty-sour chapulines (I tried them!), juicy local fruits like mamey and pineapple with honey, and sips of traditional fermented drinks like pulque and tepache.
➞ You can book the same tour as me here: Immersion Tour and Oaxaca Markets
Here are a couple other food tours that I recommend
- Authentic Oaxaca Cultural Food Tour (eat like a local)
- Earth, Corn & Fire: Tasting the Roots of Oaxacan Cuisine
Mezcal Tour
If you want to truly get mezcal, you’ve gotta go beyond sipping in the city bars and head straight to the source—a palenque out in the countryside where this iconic Oaxacan liquor is made by hand.
I did my palenque visit with The Mezcal Journey tour. We walked through every step: from roasting agave hearts in underground pits (old-school style), to crushing them with a horse-drawn stone wheel, and distilling by hand. It’s fascinating stuff—and totally eye-opening compared to tequila, which only uses one type of agave, while mezcal can be made from dozens of varieties.
We even stopped at an agave field and took shots straight from the leaves. Back at the shop, we tasted nearly a dozen types of mezcal—I was definitely keeping count.
➞ You can book this tour here: The Mezcal Journey.
If you are looking for more information about tours, see my picks for the 5 top Oaxaca City tours you shouldn’t miss.
Traditional Oaxacan Foods to Eat
Mole Nego: The most famous of Oaxaca’s seven moles, this deeply rich sauce is made with over 30 ingredients—including dried chiles, chocolate, and spices—and often takes days to prepare. Almost every restaurant serves it!
Tlayudas: Nicknamed the “Oaxacan pizza,” this crispy, oversized tortilla is piled with beans, cheese, cabbage, salsa, avocado, and grilled meats like tasajo or chorizo.
Chapulines: Toasted grasshoppers seasoned with garlic, lime, and chile are a crunchy, tangy snack locals eat like popcorn—and you’ll spot them everywhere from markets to cocktail bars.
Memelas: These thick, griddled corn tortillas are topped with asiento (pork lard), black beans, crumbled cheese, and spicy salsa—perfect for a quick breakfast or midday bite.
Tasajo: Thin, salted beef grilled over open flames, tasajo is smoky and tender, often served with tlayudas or beans and best enjoyed with a cold beer or mezcal.
Enmoladas: Think enchiladas, but instead of salsa, these tortillas are smothered in rich mole sauce and topped with queso fresco.
Molotes de Platano: Mashed plantains are stuffed with cheese or beans, then fried to golden perfection for a sweet-and-savory snack popular in Oaxaca’s Isthmus region.
Tejate: A frothy, slightly earthy drink made with toasted corn, cacao, fermented cacao beans, and flor de cacao—traditionally sipped from red clay cups.
Nieve Oaxaqueña: Oaxaca’s version of ice cream comes in unique flavors like leche quemada (burnt milk) and tuna (prickly pear); try it at Jardín Sócrates or Benito Juarez Market.
Sopa de Guías con Chochoyotes: This seasonal soup blends squash vines and blossoms with chewy corn masa dumplings called chochoyotes—a classic from Oaxacan home kitchens.
Oaxacan Hot Chocolate: Made from stone-ground chocolate discs and whisked until frothy, this rich drink is best enjoyed hot with a side of sweet pan dulce.
Traveling Soon? Use my Favorite Resources for Booking Your Trip!
Book Your Flight
Expedia is my favorite flight search engine, because it checks dozens of airlines so you can easily find the best fare deals. You can also select ‘Watch Prices’ to get an email alert when the prices change.
Book Your Accommodations
I use both Booking.com and Expedia for hotels, because each offers a couple different hotel choices and I like to compare the reviews on each one. If you have a group or are looking for more of a home atmosphere, head over to VRBO or AirBNB that has houses, apartments and even just a room for rent in every price range.
Book Your Rental Car
If love the freedom to explore like I do, driving from place to place is the best option! I always book with RentalCars.com (it’s part of booking.com) for the best prices and top brand options.
Book Some Fun Tours!
Viator and Get Your Guide are my go-to search engines for cool bucket list experiences! Each one can have different tours, so check both—why limit yourself, right?
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Travel can be unpredictable. Whether it’s a last-minute cancellation, an injury, or (ugh) theft, things happen. That’s why I recommend never leaving the country without travel insurance. Here are my faves: Safety Wing and World Nomads.
Get Packing & Travel Essentials Ready
Check out the Bucket List Journey Amazon Store to find all my favorite travel essentials. Everything from Packing cubes, to travel adapters and toiletry containers to walking shoes.
*Lastly, check travel.state.gov for visa requirements and safety information.
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