Highlights from the Holland America Baja California Cruise

There’s something pretty great about a trip that starts and ends in your own backyard, San Diego, in this case. No changing time zones, no jet-lagged confusion, just an easy sail south along a stretch of Mexico that feels both familiar and wildly overlooked. Holland America’s Baja California route—Cabo San Lucas, La Paz, and Loreto—might not be the itinerary you’ve seen a hundred times, and that’s exactly what I loved about it. It’s a quieter slice of the peninsula, a mix of desert, sea, history, and food that somehow all feels perfectly paced.

After a week on the Nieuw Amsterdam ship, here are the moments that stayed with me.

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Port 1: Cabo San Lucas

Cabo is the sort of place where you can go from riding a camel (yes, really) to watching whales breach off El Arco, all before lunch. But I wanted something a little more grounded, so I signed up for the Authentic Mexican Cuisine cooking experience at Metate, a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant tucked just far enough off the main drag that you feel like you’ve slipped into a local secret.

Calling it a “cooking class” is generous. It’s really an eating class with occasional participation (which, honestly, was fine by me). We wandered through their garden to see the marigolds, agave, moringa and mango trees before settling in with a Wildflower cocktail made with mezcal, hibiscus, cinnamon, clove, and piloncillo.

We mixed our own signature drink, the Mula Metatera (mezcal, ginger, mint, basil, lemon), and folded warm tortillas for quesadillas filled with huitlacoche. Plate after plate appeared: mackerel ceviche, battered Baja fish tacos and pork shank cooked carnitas-style. Dessert was a creamy flan that made the whole thing feel like a long lunch with friends. 

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Port 2 La Paz, Mexico

La Paz translates to “peace,” and the name fits, especially with the excursion we took. The port is only about five minutes from the trailhead for the Balandra overlook hike, a 2.2-kilometer climb that winds through cactus (including the sweet-and-sour variety, who knew?) and rocky desert terrain. It’s not too difficult, though the first half is uphill and the gravelly path can get a little slippery, so watching your footing helps. The scenery gives you permission to take your time anyway.

The payoff at the top is that famous curve of turquoise water at Balandra Beach, claimed to be one of the prettiest views on the peninsula (and I can confirm!). After hiking back down, we drove a few minutes to Tecolote Beach, where the sand is soft, the water is shallow, and the fish tacos and guacamole taste better simply because you’ve earned them. If you’re feeling energetic, you can rent jet skis; I opted for a cold drink and dipping my toes in the water. No regrets.

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Port 3: Loreto, Mexico

Loreto was the first Spanish settlement on the Baja Peninsula, founded in 1697, and it still feels anchored in history.

On our walking tour excursion, we strolled down the first paved street in the Californias, past 19th-century homes and the town hall, all leading toward the Mission of Our Lady of Loreto. If you’re even slightly interested in history, it’s worth stepping inside: 17th-century paintings, an ornate altar, and a sense that not much has changed. The adjacent museum adds context, pairing Indigenous artifacts with art brought over by missionaries centuries ago.

There was plenty of time after the tour for us to browse the local shops, wander the malecón, and stop by Mi Loreto for some yummy guacamole. 

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Sea Days Onboard 

There were three full days at sea on this trip, and I was a little nervous about how I was going to fill all that time. But it turned out not to be an issue. They had so many activities packed into the schedule that I actually found myself stressing over what to pick (which is the kind of “problem” I can totally get behind!).

I rotated between calligraphy, piñata-making, and watercolor classes in the art studio (the kind of things I never do at home, and now wonder why). I browsed the library, floated between sun and shade at the pool, and joined a paper airplane competition that got surprisingly competitive. I won a shuffleboard contest—proof that miracles happen at sea—and took a cocktail class with Ivy Mix, where we mixed Latin-inspired drinks that tasted even better at sunset.

Evenings were for shows on the World Stage: music and dance performances, a magician, and a comedian. And, of course the casino, because there’s always a moment when you convince yourself you’re feeling lucky.

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Dining

Food on board is its own adventure, and the Nieuw Amsterdam has a little bit of everything: four specialty restaurants, a poolside grill, a pizza spot, the Lido Market buffet, and the main dining room. These were the standouts:

Tamarind

With a menu inspired by Southeast Asia, China, and Japan, this restaurant quickly became my favorite one onboard. The wok-seared lobster with ginger, sweet chili, soy, and Asian greens is the dish you order first and dream about later. And whatever you do, save room for the Mango Posset for dessert. It’s bright, creamy, and the perfect sweet finish to the meal.

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Dive-in 

Dive-In is a casual poolside place where you can enjoy a burger that is grilled to perfection and served on a toasted brioche with our own trade-marked secret sauce. Or choose a grilled chicken breast sandwich. But, my lunch ritual was having the Dive-In Dog loaded with mustard, relish, and a mountain of frizzled onions. And of course a side of crispy fries. 

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Pinnacle Grill

Pinnacle Grill is the ultimate steakhouse at sea, where an exceptional menu and impeccable service make for one of finest meals you’ll ever have. The refined menu features a selection of 28-day wet-aged USDA Prime steaks meticulously chosen to guarantee the finest quality. 

My filet mignon was one of the best I’ve had anywhere, land or sea. The grilled lamb chops with controne bean purée and garlic chips were equally impressive. But, the one thing you can’t skip is the clothesline candied bacon created by chef David Burke.Delish!

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Morimoto By Sea

Chef Masaharu Morimoto, Holland America Line’s Global Fresh Fish Ambassador, brings his signature creativity to the ship with Morimoto By Sea.His menu is full of beautifully plated dishes, unique cocktails, and unique desserts.

On our last night, dining here was a big treat. The crispy whole fish with tamarind-chili sauce looked like something you’d see in a high-end restaurant, but the Angry Lobster Pad Thai totally stole my heart. I’d happily eat that once a week. And dessert? Picture a dark chocolate sphere filled with marshmallow cream and sorbet that melts tableside when hot caramel is poured over it. A little bit of theater, a whole lot of delicious!

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This itinerary showed me a completely different side of Mexico, one that felt gentle, layered, and full of surprises. And starting and ending in San Diego? Total bonus. A big thank you to Holland America for creating such a unique route that gave me memories I’m going to carry for a long time.

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