Sometimes driving is the best way to experience a destination. It gives you the opportunity to make stops where and when you want, instead of just looking at them from the window of a tour bus. This was very much true on my flexible self-driving tour of Nova Scotia with Canada by Design, which gave me the opportunity to explore at my own pace, getting into the nooks and crannies of this breathtaking Canadian province.
Driving is way better than a tour bus!
The loose and adventurous itinerary that they created led me far to the Northeast, to Cape Breton Island for a drive unlike no other. The Cabot Trail is a 185 mile driving loop that has picturesque lookout points, miles of hiking trails, lush forests and 360 degree beauty, plus quaint crafty shops, harbors and delectable fish eateries.
Many folks travel to Nova Scotia just to take this drive, making it a 3-4 day vacation. But, we were going to be adventurous and do it all in one day, just like when we made the 17 stops on Maui’s Road to Hana in 9 hours.
Clockwise or counter-clockwise?
It’s a debatable dilemma. Driving counter-clockwise will allow you to be shore-side for much of the time hugging the shoulder, whereas clockwise will not give you the jitters from the sheer drops on the edge. The choice is really up to you. We started at 9:15 in the morning and went clock-wise, a decision that was made mostly because I wanted to make a special breakfast stop and that was the direction it was in.
We started our ten-hour journey at Red Barn Restaurant, a popular restaurant and gift shop in Baddeck. We skipped dining here, because I already had my heart set on our first stop.
» Cabot Trail Stops
1. Dancing Goat
After reading about their fresh-baked muffins and cappuccinos, I knew the first stop on The Cabot Trail would be for breakfast at the Dancing Goat – try one of there fresh baked muffins or a breakfast sandwich made with a hot-from-the-oven buttermilk cheese and onion biscuit. Make sure to pick up a bag of homemade cookies (snicker doodles or ginger sparkles) for the road.
Dancing Goat | 6289 Cabot Trail, North East Margaree | Map
2. Whale Cove Cemetery
If you blink you’re going to miss the turnoff for this Cabot Trail stop which close to Margaree Harbour. Keep your eyes open for a small sign on the left. The quaint cemetery at the end of the road is only one aspect to this stop. Take a peek to the left to get a beautiful view of the blue waters blow — and a chance of spotting a whale!!
3. Margaree Harbour
You may be getting thirsty by now and in need of a road soda. Stop at Laurence’s General store in Margaree Harbour, where beverages may share the same aisle as a hammer, and take a walk through the small village or along the pristine beach.
4. Enragee Point Lighthouse
If you take the dirt road to the right on Chéticamp Island it will lead you to Enragee Point where the reward is a picturesque red-capped lighthouse. The two-mile gravel road will give you incredible panoramic views of the harbour and the town of Chéticamp, plus you’ll probably pass some cute cattle on way.
Enragee Point | Cheticamp, Nova Scotia, Canada | Map
5. Cape Breton Highlands Lookout
We stopped at a lot of lookouts on the side of the road, but this one was one of the best. Once you get into Cape Breton Highlands National Park (you’ll know by the pay booth at the entrance) pull over at the first outlet on the left.
It’s a quick stop and one of the most breathtaking.
6. Skyline Trail Hike
You’ll know you’ve reached the Skyline Trailhead by the dozens of cars that line the entrance. This hiking trail is the most famous on the Cabot Trail and for very good reason. It will not only give you the most incredible views, but you will also have the opportunity to spot a moose (we saw 3!). Make sure to ask the hikers you pass along the trail if they saw Bullwinkle on their route and how far back, so you can catch one before they retreat into the dense brush.
The full trail took us about 2 1/2 hours, but if you are strapped for time when you get to the the fork in the trail head left to get to the boardwalk view and then turn around and come back the same way you came instead of completing the loop which can add up to a half hour.
7. The Rusty Anchor
In Pleasant Bay, take a lunch break at The Rusty Anchor, the halfway point on The Cabot Trail. They are known for their lobster rolls and fish cakes — we had both. National Geographic Traveler named their lobster roll the best on the trail, though their fish cakes were no joke either.
8. Groovy Goat Farm
I am going to shamelessly admit that this was my favorite stop — who can pass up a cute, furry 4-legged animal? In the front of the Groovy Goat Farm & Soap Company is a charming shop filled with fragrant soaps made from the farm’s goats milk. The best part is that you are welcome to walk to the back barn to pet the goats. If you are anything like me, you may never want to leave these cuties.
A bonus (as if baby goats weren’t enough) is that there is a pretty white steepled church right next door...
.9. St. Anns Bay Artisan Shops
All along the Cabot Trail you will pass a small scattering of cute arts & crafts shops selling handmade pottery, iron, glassware, etc. But, St. Anns Bay is the best place to find a wide selection of shops to choose from in one concentrated area.
It’s a great place to pick up a Nova Scotia souvenir!
Bonus Stop: Baddeck Lobster Suppers
We finished The Cabot Trail at 7:30 PM, over ten hours from when we started. And the perfect ending to the perfect day was dinner at Baddeck Lobster Suppers.
Though this restaurant is technically not on the trail, you’re gonna be hungry after all that driving and there’s no better place to load up on lobster (or crab) with all-you-can-eat mussels.
For more Nova Scotia Adventures check out >>> Nova Scotia Bucket List: 20 Things to Do
. . . Check it Off Your Bucket List . . .
The Route & Location:
Nova Scotia is a province located along the Eastern portion of Canada, and is mostly bordered by coastline. The Cabot Trail is a 185-mile loop located on Cape Breton Island in the Northeastern part of Nova Scotia.
Nova Scotia is home to three airports, but most likely you will fly into is the Halifax Stanfield International Airport. The best way to get to and drive The Cabot Trail is to rent a car at the airport.
An easy option, and how I traveled throughout Nova Scotia, was by taking a flexible self-driving tour with Canada by Design. They not only tailored my itinerary to include activities I liked, but also made my car and hotel reservations, making it no-fuss for me. All I had to do was enjoy! Plus, because it was a loose itinerary it left plenty of room to explore on my own, finding my own unique experiences and sleeping in when I wanted!
- Seeing the highlights of The Cabot Trail can absolutely be done in one day, but it may be better to split it up into two, staying the night somewhere around the halfway point. Canada by Design can plan your trip any way you see fit.
- You may as well wear hiking boots or tennis shoes because you will not be able to control yourself from exploring some of the trails.
- Bring and wear sunscreen, even on cloudy days you can get sunburned. Plus, you may not realize how much sun you can actually get just hopping in and out of the car.
LANGUAGE: English is primarily spoke on Nova Scotia, but French is also very common and you will see many signs in both languages.
CURRENCY: Canadian Dollar
ELECTRICITY: Plug Type A/B, 110v. The voltage and socket is the same as the U.S., so there is not need for an adapter or converter.
TIME ZONE: Atlantic Time Zone (ADT)
ACTIVITY LEVEL: Light-Moderate. Simply driving the trail is light in activity level, but hiking the Skyline Trail will be of moderate level.